The Betta
While most creatures, especially fish, fascinate me. I
find the Betta to be truly amazing. This elegant and yet
hardy fish has many characteristics that make it well suited
for life in the bowl. Originally bettas were first found
thriving in the warm shallow waters of rice fields and canals.
To survive in this oxygen poor conditions, Betta’s
have what’s known as a “labyrinth organ”,
which allows them to breath air.
 There
are other reasons why bettas are well suited for life in
the bowl. Betta’s are generally loners. Male bettas
will fight to the death any other male betta they meet.
Many times even female bettas are met with the same kind
of aggression, the male will drive the female off after
mating and care for the eggs himself.
While male bettas tend to get along with other kids of
fish, their long flowing fins, the result of hundreds of
years of selective breeding tend to be the targets of other
fish. Many times these fins will be reduced to stringy stubs
in a community tank.
Probably because of these long flowing fins, bettas tend
to move a lot less than other fish albeit with significant
grace again furthering their temperament towards the characteristic
sedimentary waters of the bowl.
So the next step is how to keep your betta happy and healthy
within this relatively small environment. I’ve found
it to be very easy and enjoyable so I’ll share my
experiences and you be the judge.
I have 3 betta’s as of the writing of this article.
Two bright red’s that I’ve had for over a year
and an orange/yellowish fellow I’ve had for about
3+ years now. Non of them have been in a bowl larger than
one gallon, and that being only about half full.
Plants, aquatic
If you have read other articles about bettas and aquariums,
many experts will lecture on the importance of plenty of
room and fresh water, even for bettas. I disagree. I believe
one of the most important items bettas need, more so than
perfect water quality and almost as important as food to
be happy is plants. I say this for a number of reasons:
- Aquatic plants help oxygenate the water.
- Aquatic and terrestrial root cuttings can be used to
help reduce ammonia, a byproduct of most animals.
- Increase surface area to allow the growth of ammonia
and nitrate eating bacteria.
- Provide coverage which can be so important, especially
for new fish that need that added level of security as
they adapt to their new environment.
- Environmentally that is what they are instinctively
used to, rice fields have plants in them. Lots and lots
of plants.
Some of my favorite plants to keep with bettas are as follows:
 anacharis,
also known as the Brazilian Waterweed, is an ideal aquatic
plant for the bowl. Light to bright green leaves, with
branching stems covered in small grouped leaflets. Anacharis
anchors itself in the substrate by sending out tendril
like roots, but will also grow just as well free floating.
In fact it may grow so well that it will require frequent
pruning. Works well as an algae fighter and nutrient sponge
usually at a very affordable price.
Read more about working with anacharis
 frogbit,
Free floating small plant (Hydrocharis morsus-ranae) resembling
a miniature lily pad. It has nickel sized, kidney shaped,
green leaves about 1 inch or less across that grow in
circular clusters. New pads rise from the cluster center
to produce new growth. A white flower with a yellow center
may be tucked among the leaves. The undersides of the
leaves are puffed with spongy, air-holding tissue. The
roots are beautiful fan like extensions that can grow
two inches or more and absorb nutrients directly from
the water without having to anchor or even touch the bottom.
Read more about working with
frobit
 salvinia
minima, Small, oval, 3/8" joined eaves covered
with tiny hairs that absorb nutrients from the water.
Prefers a lot of light and will help control algae. These
plants are essentially floating ferns. Since they naturally
occur in still waters having high organic content they
are perfect for the bowl. Their root-like structures which
are actually modified fronds that act like nutrient sponges
helping to clean the water like their floating counter
part.
Read more about working with salvinia
 duckweed,
a small floating flowering plant, is highly
recommended for fish. It's not only considered extremely
healthy for many types of fish in their diet but the roots
attract other nutritious microscopic foods for smaller
fish and fry. These plants grow floating in still or slow-moving
fresh water around the globe, except in the coldest regions.
The growth of these high-protein plants can be extremely
rapid, so much so that even if a few of these plants remain
after a water change they will quickly repopulate the
surface. I've read that environmental scientists are using
duckweeds to remove unwanted substances from water. All
in all a very good addition for a bowl.
Read more about working with
duckweed
 java
moss, While one of my absolute favorites I'm
still relatively new at growing this plant let alone taking
good pictures. You should be able to find better pictures
of this plant on some of the links I've included in this
article, Java moss is the common name for Vesicularia
dubyana, a hardy plant which makes few demands on the
water or light and will grow on just about any surface.
It is ideal for decorating stones and plant roots in your
bowl. It can be anchored by placing a stone on top, tied
into position using fishing line or just left free floating.
If its growth becomes too excessive as it usually will
given enough time it can be broken up and spread to other
bowls and aquariums. Its an excellent hiding place for
smaller fish and shrimp.
Read more about working
with javamoss
Plants, terrestrial
While the above plants are readily available
and affordable they are by no means the only ones you can
use. There are many, many more aquatic, semi aquatic and
even terrestrial plants that are well suited for the bowl.
The following are just a few that I have had tremendous
success growing with my bettas and shrimp.
- Spider Plants, (Chlorophytum comosum),
are a very common of houseplants. This relatively low
maintence plant will grow and propagate very easily. Care
involves watering once or twice a week and an occasional
feeding with some form of plant food several times a year.
They do well in almost any kind of light.Smaller version
of the spider plant will appear in offshoot branches after
the plant is about a year or more old and will continue
to produce offspring in this manner for the life of the
plant which I understand can be quite long. Once the small
spider plants have some kind of root buds showing on their
underside they can be cut off and planced in water to
allow their roots to develope. Afterwards they can be
kepts in water or moved to some form of medium like perlite
or potting soil.
Spider plants are known to help improve air quality
more so in fact than many other plants so it's a good
plant to have around in numbers.
-
Striped inch plant, ( Tradescantia
pallida or Setcreasea purpurea) Commonly called the
Wandering Jew, is an evergreen perennial plant with
pointy leaves which vary from purple to other common
varietys with green and purple leaves and green and
white or variegated. Occasionall small three-petaled
pink flowers with yellow stamens will appear depending
on season and condition of the plant. The plant thrives
in sun or light shade making it both an excellent indoor
and outdoor plant though it should be brought in before
freezing temperatures start. Typically used in hanging
baskets, ornamental in gardens and borders and as ground
covering. The plant propagates easily by cuttings; the
stems are visibly segmented and roots will frequently
grow from the joints.The Wandering Jew is native to
America and is found from the southern United States
through South America.
- Tahitian Bridal Veil, (Tripogandra
multiflora Commelinaceae)
Native to the Tropical Rain Forest is fast, easy growing
beautiful plant. Trailing stalks makes this plant great
for hanging. It's 2" wide 4" long leaves are
green with yellow streaks with purple undersides and
olive tops; small flowers borne abover the foiage. Stems
grows to be several feet in length.
These plants flourish in partial shade, humid air,
and planty of water with a minimum temperature of 55-60
degrees. The soil should be pretty moist at all times.
When the plants have developed a good root system, diluted
liquid fertilizer can be fed once a month. Watch for
aphids and mealybugs.
- Pilea
If not grown in water Keep the soil moderately moist and
use a house plant fertilizer according to label directions.
The plants are intolerant of low humidity. Ideal temperatures
are 62 to 65 degrees at night and up to 85 degrees during
the day. Pileas have limited application as foliage plants
because of their fragile stems and foliage and their need
for rather high humidity levels for long term survival
indoors. They are grown primarily as small potted plants,
3-inch being the most popular size, and hanging baskets,
usually 6- and 8-inch for the trailing types. Pileas have
also been used successfully in dish gardens and terrariums.
Propagation is by cuttings.Pilea
- Aluminum Plant
Aluminum Plant
Pilea cadierei
Origins: Vietnam
The species of Pilea listed here are ideally suited for
window sills and tables. Most grow no more than 12 inches
tall and have peculiarly puffy leaves with depressed veins
that make them look quilted.
The aluminum plant grows about 10 inches tall and has
2 1/2- to 3 1/2-inch leaves, each with three conspicuous
sunken veins; the quilted sections appear to have been
brushed with aluminum paint. .Pilea species do best in
bright indirect or curtain-filtered sunlight; if only
artificial light is available, provide at least 400 foot-candles.
Night temperatures of 65° to 70° and day temperatures
of 75° to 85° are ideal
- Pilea Glauca
The many species of pilea grow best in an east window
or a medium light intensity. In a south window, protection
from the sun is needed. Keep the soil moderately moist
and use a house plant fertilizer according to label directions.
The plants are intolerant of low humidity. Ideal temperatures
are 62 to 65 degrees at night and up to 85 degrees during
the day. Pileas have limited application as foliage plants
because of their fragile stems and foliage and their need
for rather high humidity levels for long term survival
indoors. They are grown primarily as small potted plants,
3-inch being the most popular size, and hanging baskets,
usually 6- and 8-inch for the trailing types. Pileas have
also been used successfully in dish gardens and terrariums.
Propagation is by cuttings.
The Water Change
Another two words you will come across here when reading
about betta, and fish care in general is “water change”.
In internet news groups and articles you will see this stressed
again and again how important it is to constantly “change
the water”. The water change is probably where your
going to kill your fish. Please don’t get me wrong,
water changes are good but if not done right they are best
done not at all.
A fish can probably die during a water change for several
reasons, contaminates such as chlorine, too sudden of a
temperature change or just the trauma of the change in environment.
So here are my tips on this important issue:
First off it’s good to realize every betta is an
individual, I know that sounds trite and I don’t know
if it holds true for all fish many of which seem like carbon
copies swimming in schools but I’m convinced that
bettas exhibit individual personality traits and us betta
owners do well to bear this in mind. Some bettas when you
get them home will be eating right out of your hand while
still in the pet shop bag but I think most won’t.
Most will need a adjustment period to settle in to their
new home.
I personally like to prepare a one gallon bowl at least
3-4 days in advance, sometimes several weeks and half fill
it with either filtered water or tap water that has sat
for at least several days. I add some duck weed, frogbit,
some anacharis and always a rooted spider plant, one that
has never seen soil but been grown entirely in water, providing
nice roots to hide behind and leaves to hide under. For
a bottom I prefer a nice crystal white sand that's been
washed thoroughly. Sometime I've had to pay extra for this
at my local hardware and garden shops since in my area only
construction grade sand meets these specifications.
It is a good idea to let the betta bag (or water ever container
he happens to be in) sit next to the bowl for about 20 minutes
for the temperatures to equalize. Then gently pure the betta
into the new bowl. I like to keep my bowls about 50%-60%
capacity giving the water as much surface area as possible
to aid in aeration.
I take the bowl and place it right next to a similar bowl
with a betta I already have had for a while. The plants
will provide the security it needs while the introduction
of a rival will help bring it out of any sullen stupor the
trip from the pet shop may have induced.
After this point I don’t like to do a water change
for several weeks. A water change can be a bit of a trauma
especially for a new fish so I hold off. Even some of the
less intrusive methods like siphoning can still cause problems.
The longer the bowl has been allowed to sit with plants
before the new bettas arrival the more chance ammonia and
nitrate eating bacteria will have been given to accumulate.
This biological conversion of ammonia to nitrite, and nitrite
to nitrate via aerobic bacteria is called cycling.
A one gallon bowl that has been given a chance to cycle
in this fashion will have no trouble housing a betta for
several weeks with out a water change with the following
caveat. Keep your feedings to a minimum. I can’t stress
this point enough. I’ve read that many pet shops attribute
up to 90 % of purchased fish mortality rates are attributed
to over feeding.
It’s not that the fish dies from eating too much
but from the sudden spike in ammonia levels due to un eaten
food laying on the bottom or from the extra waste from food
that did get eaten. This goes for aquariums as well as bowls.
I only give my betta’s what they can eat in about
30 seconds with none of it even reaching the bottom and
generally only 3 feedings a week.
In a future article I'll be covering some of the exciting
live foods one can easily raise for their betta. but for
now, my favorite type of dry food for betta's are the small
pellets. The following list are some of the brands I've
had great success with:
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HBH betta bites, Quote:
"Contains essential vitamins and minerals for
better health and color vibrancy. The unique formula
contains appetite stimulating ingredients to attract
bettas. Appears as small insects floating on the water
surface to trigger immediate feeding response." |
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Top Fin Betta Bits, Quote:
"Keep your betta beautiful and energetic with
Top Fin Betta Bits. Formulated especially for betta,
these floating pellets contain essential nutrients and
color enhancers." |
|
Wardley Betta Food, Quote: "A
balanced blend of nutritious ingredients that help aid
in the health and brilliant coloration of tropical fish.
Extraordinary color enhancement is achieved from natural
ingredients." |
|
Hikari Betta Bio Gold, Quote: "Enhance
your bettas' color the natural way with Hikari Betta
Bio-Gold. Formulated to meet 100% of your bettas' daily
nutritional needs while enhancing their brilliant colors
and preventing fading. A high level of stabilized vitamin
C promotes proper growth and strengthens resistance
to disease and stress. These floating pellets will not
cloud the water." |
I have tried some of the flaked food for bettas but not
with much success. They either chomp and spit out the flakes
or ignore them all together. Maybe others have had success
with flaked foods so it might be a good idea to keep an
open mind and use what works best for your pet.
If you do have trouble with food reaching
the bowl bottom, there is help, which leads me into my next
topic:
Bowl Mates for your betta
 Actually
because of size and temperament of bettas and other fish,
there are not too many choices for company for this fish.
In fact, for bowls of one gallon or less the only one I
really like is the Malaysian Trumpet Snail. The Trumpet
Snail is a small, hardy and rather prolific live bearing
snail. While many aquariumists don’t care too much
for this creature, and rightfully so since its high rate
of reproduction can cause it to get out of hand very quickly
in a tank. In the bowl it does quite well, digging through
the sand eating all kinds of organic matter and algae but
leaving most plants alone. Any unwanted snails can be easily
removed during a water change.
 Another
creature that some betta enthusiasts have had success with
is a common fresh water crustacean called a Ghost Shrimp.
Available in most pet shops, Ghost shrimp will eat just
about anything, making them excellent scavengers. They are
typically non aggressive to most other species though they
will tend to poke at each other from time to time. I personally
like to keep Ghost Shrimp by themselves in a bowl. I’ve
even had them lay eggs (develop eggs on ththeir tail swimmerets)
and rear young in a bowl though out of about 20 only 3-4
ultimately survived to adult hood. Small shrimp like that
would be quickly devoured by a betta. 
The key to having Betta’s and Ghost Shrimp living
together is plenty of room. Even a gallon bowl might be
too small. Plants and Rocks for cover for the shrimp will
also help. I would also go for height. A one to two gallon
clear vase might be better then a wide bowl since the betta
will like to stay at the top while the shrimp can scavenge
near the bottom.
 Feeding
can be an issue as well. While both shrimp and betta will
eat the betta pellets my fish will eat them up way before
shrimp even notices them. I get around this by putting a
few tetramin flakes in at the same time as the betta pellets.
I try to place these different foods at opposite sides of
the bowl. As my betta and ghost shrimp have started to get
used to each other I've notice the shrimp stealing an ocasional
pellet off the bottom and the betta not making too much
of a fuss. 
Bear in mind that even if you do everything right the
betta still might decide to kill the Ghost Shrimp. I’ve
seen this happen and attribute it more towards territory
then anything else since the shrimp did not get eaten. Also,
remember, betta’s all have such different temperaments,
effecting how much tolerance they will have towards other
creatures near them.
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